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The Cutting Garden

Notes from the shop floor, mostly about what is in season and what is not worth your money this week.

All journal entries
  • Flower shop front on a street

    What we do with the Monday stems

    Anything still good on a Monday morning goes into wrapped bunches at four pounds, and it is gone by lunchtime.

    Read on
  • Pink tulips in a vase

    Tulips are not a spring flower any more

    Forced Dutch stems arrive from November. We hold off until the British ones start in February, and here is why.

    Read on
  • Peony and eucalyptus arrangement

    Six weeks of peonies, and that is your lot

    The season is brutally short. Buy them tight, keep them cool, and do not let anyone talk you into imports in October.

    Read on
  • Hands holding a bunch of flowers

    How to wrap a bunch that survives a bus

    Paper, a wet wrap and one piece of tape in the right place. It takes ninety seconds and saves the whole thing.

    Read on

Notes from the tempering room

Four things we get asked at the counter often enough to have written down properly.

  • Chopped dark chocolate

    Single origin means less than you think

    A country on the wrapper tells you almost nothing. The estate, the year and the ferment tell you everything.

  • Stacked white chocolate bars

    White chocolate is chocolate, and we will die on this hill

    It is cocoa butter, sugar and milk. Made properly, with real vanilla and no vegetable fat, it is a serious thing.

  • Box of filled chocolates

    Why our boxes only hold nine

    Ganache has a fortnight in it. A box of twenty-four guarantees that half of them are past their best when you reach them.

  • Milk chocolate bars and shards

    Tempering, explained without a thermometer

    You are lining up crystals, not hitting a number. Once you understand that, the snap comes on its own.

Field Notes

Written by people who have got it wrong on a hill in the rain at least once.

Everything else
  • View from inside a tent

    Condensation is not a leak

    Nine tents in ten that come back as faulty are working exactly as designed. Here is how to tell the difference.

    Read
  • Group around a campfire at dusk

    One pot, four people, forty minutes

    The camp meal we cook on every staff trip, with a shopping list that fits in one pannier.

    Read
  • Lit tents under a starry sky

    Wild camping, legally

    Where you actually may in England and Wales, which is far less of the map than most people assume.

    Read
  • Tent pitched at sunrise

    Pitching on a slope without regretting it

    Head uphill, door across the wind, and never at the bottom of a bowl however flat it looks at six o'clock.

    Read

From the counter

Three arguments we are happy to keep having with customers on a Saturday.

Ask us anything
  • Fresh cheese being made in a dairy

    Raw milk, and what it actually changes

    Pasteurising is not the enemy, but it does flatten the top notes. Taste the two side by side and you will hear the difference.

  • Blue cheese board with figs and walnuts

    Stop refrigerating it to death

    Two hours out of the fridge before it reaches the table. Wrapped in paper, never clingfilm, in the warmest part of the fridge.

  • Stacked blocks of cheese

    Building a board for six

    One hard, one soft, one blue, and something you have never heard of. That last one is the whole point of the exercise.

The Press Room

Occasional writing about metal type, damp paper and the parts of the job that have not changed since 1890.

  • Sheets running through a printing press

    Why the impression should be shallow

    Deep bite looks impressive and destroys the type. We set for a kiss and let the ink do the work.

    Read the piece
  • Fountain pen nib on written script

    Choosing a paper that takes ink

    Cotton rag over wood pulp, every time. Anything with a coating will feather and no amount of skill will save it.

    Read the piece
  • Writing by hand at a desk

    Setting copy that is meant to be read

    Sixty-six characters, generous leading, and a margin wide enough for a thumb. Everything else is decoration.

    Read the piece